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FROM THE EDITOR
Good morning. The block was quiet at 5:48 a.m. and Mrs. Kim was already at the press. This week's letter is about her and the tofu house she has held on Geary Street since 1992. It is also about her block, which has not held her back so much as not held still.
If you can spare 12 minutes today, this is the one to read. If not, save it for the walk home. The piece will be at the same URL forever.
— Eric
THIS WEEK'S KEEPER · 12-MIN READ
The last Korean tofu house on Geary Street
BY ERIC · PHOTOGRAPHS BY KIWI
For 34 years, Mrs. Kim has been ladling soondubu before sunrise. As her block changes around her, she's not going anywhere, and she has things to say.
It is 5:48 in the morning on a Tuesday in February when Mrs. Kim flips the switch on a tofu press she bought in 1992 and slides the first batch out. The press is heavy. She is 67. She uses both hands.
The shop is on Geary Street, between a vape store that opened last year and a bubble tea chain that opened the year before that. The block has changed around her. The shop has not.
“My customers come because they remember their mothers. I am not making tofu. I am making memory.”
— MRS. KIM, OWNER
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